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In this newly metropolitanised corner of Leeds a hostelry characterised by sticky carpets might have once been acceptable, but these days Chapel Allerton is an altogether more sophisticated affair.

The Mustard Pot had gained a peculiar reputation for being downmarket, which is ironic since it is a beautiful building sat above Stainbeck Lane on an ample, tree-lined lawn.

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It looks idyllic, but for a long time it was never really an idyll. It didn't do what it said on the tin. It served relatively cheap drinks and food but the exterior screamed class.

The building was once possibly the oldest inhabited house in Leeds, parts of it dating back as far as 1635. The bulk of the present building dates from around 1730, and was once an imposing family home – Clough House – with views across Leeds from its prominent position on the edge of Chapeltown Moor.

Apparently the family that owned it had connections to the Colman family of Reckitt and Colman fame, so when the building was converted into a pub, The Mustard Pot was an obvious name.

Of course, traditionalists will always argue that its latest incarnation as something of an upmarket gastropub has negated its virtues as a vestage of ye olde village of Chap A. But the truth was that over the last five years or so a lot of people thought it had become, well, a bit rough.

It certainly wasn't somewhere you went to get good food. That's changed now.

The number of dishes they have on offer isn't vast, but what there is has been judiciously selected and imaginatively put together.

The emphasis is on salads, light bites and Sunday roasts with a couple of starters and dessert options – but they're all delectable.

But first up, the interior. I mention the interior first because it's just so striking. They've retained many of the original Georgian features – fireplaces, panelling, windows – but down has gone some rather smart laminate and, erm, carpet. Non-sticky carpet, for now.

The decor is a cool bluey grey, the furniture rather simple but stylish and makes a blatant understatement. This is a rather smart, ye olde watering and grazing hole. No brass ornaments or jukeboxes here, thanks very much.

The new landlady is Nicola Storey. She used to run the equally stylish, but somewhat smaller, Franks cafe bar on New Briggate. The tiny venue was a pretty happening hang out during its short life, serving beer, cocktails and the occasional snack and sandwich.

What she's working on with The Mustard Pot is a similar formula albeit on a bigger scale which, if first impressions of the clientele are anything to go by, is well and truly working.

Like it or not, this pub is now patronised by the same kind of punter you'll find elsewhere in Chapel Allerton and, as a result, it's a somewhat more civilised affair – or dull and homogenised, depending on your point of view. Oliver prefers civilised.

And it was extremely civil when we first walked in, really friendly staff – efficient and helpful. But everything's done with a relaxed delivery you'd expect from a pub which does food.

It makes a big difference from the last time we paid a visit to The Mustard Pot before it was reinvented. Then we dropped in to sample the beer and were kept waiting by the barmaid as she made herself a pot noodle. Lovely.

But there's not a convenience food in sight this time round, quite the
opposite.

Here we started with a mixed plate of cous cous, roasted vegetables, picallili and prosciutto ham plus a small parma ham and peach salad. All absolutely wonderful, nicely presented, decent portions (but not overfilling) and clearly very fresh ingredients.

And it was a similar story with the mains, only better. My dining partner had the vegetarian lasagne made up of huge field mushrooms and lovely spinach while I went for a hearty man salad of chorizo and squid.

But possibly the best part was the desserts, even though there were only a few on offer they were great – a sundae made of of a variety of flavour of ice cream which was quite the creamiest I'd ever tasted and an imaginative orange and strawberry trifle which came topped with cream in a large glass.

Both gorgeous.

What's more it is very inexpensive. Starters are around £4-6 and our most expensive main was £10.95. All in all, three courses plus a couple of drinks only came to £50. Even if you threw a bottle of wine and coffees in you'd be hard pushed to spend £70.

Considering this is a pub that isn't exactly cheap either, but the high level of the food makes it worth it. Even for a gastropub the quality is exceptional, indeed better than Oliver has sampled in more conventional restaurants.

But more than anything else the overall ambience and chilled execution is what makes the new Mustard Pot such a draw.

Plus it's very reasonably priced and back to being the Chapel Allerton gem it once was.